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Metallic Epoxy · Dearborn

Metallic Epoxy Floors in Dearborn, MI

We swirl mineral mica through the resin by hand, then seal your Dearborn floor under a clear polyaspartic top.

2 days installs · typical timeline

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Dearborn showroom with metallic epoxy floor.
Trowel creates swirl patterns in metallic resin.
Cured metallic epoxy showing mica depth.
What we install

What a metallic floor actually is, on the slab

A Metallic Epoxy floor is the one people stop and stare at. Instead of flat color, it has depth, like a slab of polished stone or a pour of liquid metal. We build that look right here in Dearborn by blending mineral mica into clear resin, then moving it by hand while the coat is still wet. No two floors come out the same. If you want the toughness without the swirl, we also pour a plain solid coat that skips the show.

Here is how we pour a Metallic Epoxy floor. First we grind the slab open so the resin grabs raw concrete, the same prep every good floor starts with. Then we lay a base coat in a deep tone, often a charcoal or a bronze. While that coat is still wet, we pour the mica blend over it and work it with a trowel and a roller. The pigment drifts and pools into veins and waves. Once it cures, a clear polyaspartic topcoat locks the whole thing in and gives it that wet, glassy depth.

  • Common blends here: copper on slate, polished nickel, storm blue, warm walnut.
  • Sealed under polyaspartic. Same chemical and daylight toughness as any other system.
  • Every pour is one of a kind, since the mica moves on its own.
  • Right answer for a finished basement bar, a polished garage, a commercial entry foyer.
  • We bring real samples so you see the swirl in your own room light.
A metallic floor is part craft and part chemistry. The hand that swirls it is the part you cannot fake.

We pour Metallic Epoxy floors across Dearborn and the rest of Wayne County. The crew that lays out the sample is the same crew that pours your floor, so the look you sign off on is the look you get. We will tell you straight which rooms suit a metallic pour and which ones are better off with a simpler coat. When you call, you reach the people doing the work, not a call center. That honest read is why our floors land the way you pictured them.

Want a floor nobody else on your block will have? Call our Dearborn crew, and we will bring samples, talk through the colors, and read your slab. One crew, one plan, and a floor poured to match the room.

Materials

How the metallic layer is actually built

A Metallic Epoxy floor is built in layers, and the magic one sits in the middle. The base coat goes down first in a solid deep color, since that tone is what the metallic pigment plays against. Then comes the mica, a fine mineral powder mixed into clear resin. We pour it while the base is still open and move it with trowels, rollers, and sometimes a torch to chase the bubbles out. As it settles, the pigment separates into bright veins and dark pools, and that motion is what reads as depth once it dries.

The look lives or dies on that wet window. We have only a short stretch of time to move the mica before the resin starts to firm up, so the whole crew works the floor at once. Push it too long and the pattern goes muddy. Stop too soon and it looks flat. Once we land the look we want, we leave it to cure, then seal it under a clear polyaspartic top. That clear coat is what gives a Metallic Epoxy floor its glassy shine and what protects the pattern for the long haul.

  • Mineral mica suspended in clear resin, moved by hand during the wet window.
  • A deep base color underneath is what the mica veins play against.
  • The 3D depth only reads right under a clear polyaspartic topcoat.
  • Worked in one short wet window before the resin starts to set.
Clean edge where metallic epoxy meets concrete.
Finished room with swirled metallic epoxy floor.
What about the alternatives?

Metallic versus the other designer floor options

Metallic is not the only way to dress up a bare slab. A few finishes add color without the flat gray. Here is how they stack up against a Metallic Epoxy floor sealed under clear polyaspartic.

Acid-stained concrete

Marbled color soaks right into the slab, though the effect is subtle and every old stain still shows.

Acceptable

Polished concrete with dyes

Grinds the slab to a sheen and takes dye well, a clean look if you like the raw concrete feel.

Recommended

Terrazzo (epoxy version)

Chips of stone set in resin and ground flat, gorgeous but slow to install and pricier to pour.

Acceptable

Full decorative flake

Dense vinyl chips for a speckled look that hides flaws, tough and practical but not the liquid metal effect.

Recommended

Metallic epoxy and polyaspartic

Mica swirled by hand for real depth, then sealed clear, the boldest floor of the bunch.

Recommended
How it goes

From quote to walk-on, fast.

Before you book

Questions to push on before booking the install

A Metallic Epoxy floor is an art piece you walk on, so ask any installer these questions before you sign.

Yes, and you should insist on it. A metallic blend can look like bronze under a shop light and almost green under your own bulbs. We bring real cured samples and set them down in the actual room, at the time of day you use it most. What you approve in your light is what we pour.
A lot, and that is the point. Because we move the mica by hand, no two floors come out matching. We can steer it toward more swirl or a calmer wash, but we cannot stamp out an exact copy. If you need a floor that looks identical to a photo, a metallic pour is the wrong pick.
The clear polyaspartic top takes the daily wear, so most marks buff out of that layer. A deep gouge that reaches the metallic coat is harder, since we have to blend new mica into an aged floor. We can do it, but a perfect match is not promised. On a busy floor we lay the top a little thicker for that reason.
It can, but the slab has to pass the same moisture test as any basement floor. Water vapor rising through a below grade slab will lift a metallic coat just like any other. So we read the moisture first and match the primer to it. If the slab runs wet, we solve that before a drop of mica goes down.
The mineral pigment holds its tone well, and the clear polyaspartic on top is built to take sun without yellowing. A cheap clear coat is what turns a metallic floor cloudy over a few summers, so the top layer matters as much as the swirl. We use a top that stays clear, so the depth you see on day one is the depth you keep.
Aftercare

Keeping the depth visible across the years

A Metallic Epoxy floor is easy to keep up, but it shows dust a little more than a busy flake floor does, since the surface is smooth and deep. Most weeks a dust mop and a damp mop are all it needs. The gloss is what carries the depth, so the goal is just to keep that top coat clean and unscratched. Treat it gently and the floor holds its shine and its motion for many seasons.

  • Sweep once a week. The deeper the gloss, the more each micro scratch shows.
  • Damp mop once a month with a pH neutral product. Skip abrasive scrub pads.
  • Felt pads under chair legs, weight bench feet, and anything dragged across the surface.
  • Wipe spills fairly soon, though the sealed top gives you time to react.
  • When the shine dulls after years, we scuff and recoat the clear top.
Dearborn showroom with metallic epoxy floor.
FAQ

Frequent metallic epoxy questions

Yes. The same crew that quotes your floor is the one that grinds the slab, mixes the resin, and pulls every coat across the concrete from the first pass to the final seal. Call us and you reach the people doing the work. No answering service, and no handoff to a stranger on install day.
Both are resin coatings. They just cure in different ways, and that difference decides where each one belongs in the floor. Standard epoxy goes down thick and builds a hard base over time, while polyaspartic sets in hours and stays clear in daylight instead of yellowing. So we often pour both. Each does the job it does best.
It depends. The size of the floor, the shape the concrete is in, and the coating system you choose all move the number, so there is no single flat rate that fits every job. A clean two car garage takes less work than a cracked slab that needs repair before any resin goes down. Call us, describe the space, and we will talk you through it.
They are. As long as the work happens indoors, we heat the space, watch the slab temperature, and choose a system built to cure when the air outside is cold. Garages and basements stay workable straight through a Michigan winter. Outdoor pours are the ones we hold for warmer, drier weather.
Not if it is built right. Hot tire pickup happens when a thin coat never gripped the bare concrete in the first place, so it lets go the moment a warm tire settles onto it. We grind the slab open so the resin bites, then seal the top with a coat made to take heat and weight. Park on it daily and the floor stays put.
Ready when you are

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